What a delightful way to spend Sunday. We are in the beer garden at Green Bench
Brewery in St. Petersburg, Florida. (http://greenbenchbrewing.com/on-tap-and-to-go/) It’s just a little after noon so the sun is
almost directly overhead, fortunately there is a slight breeze blowing from the
north to mitigate the sun’s effects. There are families with dogs and children
dotted around the grass, this could almost be the garden of an English country
pub if the weather was colder and damper.
It’s lunchtime and we bought a picnic with turkey, cheese and
tomato sandwiches made with Nan bread and fresh Plant City, Florida,
strawberries and oranges. The Green Bench Brewery provided a comfortable table
and chairs, beverages to wash the food down and music from the guitar and
violin duo, Hot Club SRQ, to keep us entertained.
The brewery name - Green Bench – is a reminder of St.
Petersburg history. In the early 1900’s a real estate dealer painted a few
benches with advertisements and placed them near his business. The idea took off and more benches appeared
until in 1916 a city ordinance was passed making all the benches green. Eventually there were more than 7,000 benches
placed on the streets of St. Pete and the city became known as the “City of
Green Benches” with the benches a symbol of the city’s hospitality. Old postcards show people sitting on the
benches and passing the time of day (http://postcardy.blogspot.com/2012/03/famous-green-benches-st-petersburg.html)
The benches were removed in 1967 - 1969 as the city council
promoted a more youthful image for St. Pete but the memory lingers on at the
Green Bench Brewing Co, where people gather, not just to drink beer, but to
pass a few pleasant hours in conversation with friends and neighbors.
In his book “Tampa Bay Beer” Mark DeNote gives credit to
Green Bench Brewery owners – Steven Duffy and Nathan Stonecipher - as the trail
blazers in the brewing industry in St. Petersburg. They were the first microbrewery in the town,
their owners work with the city council changing zoning ordinances and use
codes paved the way for the other six breweries that have opened in the city.
Enough of the history lesson, let’s talk about the breweries
raison d’etre – the drinks.
We drank three different beers as well as a delightful
non-alcoholic lemon-ginger thirst quencher for my mother-in-law.
I obviously wasn’t paying enough attention when I ordered the
first beers. I asked for an IPA and an easy to drink lager and I thought the
lady tending the bar said the IPA was the Founders
IPA and the other was a Blonde ale. Neither of these are listed on the Green
Bench web site so you’ll have to take my word for it. The IPA (on the right) and the Blonde (the
two pint glasses on the left) are shown in the picture below, along with the
sparkling lemon-ginger in the snifter on the rear of the table.
The ‘Founders‘ IPA was a lovely red-orange, the color of fall
leaves, and poured with a slight head. The first long swig was delightful, a
nice medium bodied ale with the slightest hint of citrus in the
background. As I put the glass down the
bitterness from the hops and the moderate alcohol content left a pleasant
flavor in my mouth that went well with strong taste of the real English Cheddar
cheese, Smoked Turkey and Dijon mustard on my sandwich. The combination with the
beer could only have been made better with the addition of a pickled onion or
two.
The ladies in our party were not beer drinkers, but they
enjoyed the light, easy to drink Blonde beer.
The color was gold, like a nice ripe papaya, and came out of the bar tap
with a slight head. The taste was light and summery, with hints of tropical
fruits overlaying the hops. An easy to
drink beer that went well with the smoked turkey, tomato and humus sandwiches.
After the sandwiches were eaten I wanted to try something
different that I could drink while enjoying the music from Hot Club SRQ.
The choice was Les
Grisettes.
The Green Bench website says this about Les Grisettes: “the
first beer of our 100% Brettanomyces line.
At under 4%, Les Grisette is a traditional style farmhouse ale brewed
with Spelt, Buckwheat, Rye and Oats fermented on our house mixed culture of
wild yeasts. Grisettes were originally brewed for coal miners in the Hainaut
region of Wallonia, Belgium. The name refers to the “gray” garments the women
wore that delivered the beer to the miners. They were known as Les Grisettes”
I enjoyed
this beer. It was satisfyingly
different. This tasted like a beer that could be drunk by the farmers in the
English countryside. It is light in body
and has a dry finish. The beer is golden-orange color with little or no head
and not much fizz. A slight fruitiness
with a hint of ginger spice on the tongue.
It’s a beer to drink in big mouthfuls, not a beer to sip delicately and
would probably work wonders with a traditional ploughman’s lunch – crusty
bread, pork pie, hard-boiled egg, a piece of cheese and a pickle or two.
Those that
have read my blog know that I like beer a lot and have written notes on over
540 of the beers I have drunk. Though Les Grisettes was not my first taste of a
farmhouse ale, I obviously did not spend enough time researching the few I have
drunk, so now I am going in search of further information.
Two of the four main ingredients of beer (water, malt, hops and yeast) are mentioned in the description of Les Grisettes on
the web site.
First the
yeast. Brettanomyces is a species of
yeast that when used injudiciously imparts unpleasant flavor to a beer. Hence
it is unwelcome in most breweries.
However, 100% Brett fermentations typically create a fruit forward
beer. This is the wild yeast they
mention. (http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/100%25_Brettanomyces_Fermentation)
The second
ingredient mentioned are the grains that make up the malt. Brewers often use different grains to change
the characteristics of beer. Green Bench are using Spelt, an ancient grain that
gives beer a nutty flavor. In my younger
days while working in Holland, I drank significant quantities of Dutch Jenever
which is distilled from spelt, so I know a lot about nutty flavor. Oats help
create a fuller bodied beer and Rye sharpens flavors and can add a subtle
spiciness.
Buckwheat,
though is not a cereal grain and has nothing to do with wheat. It is actually a
fruit seed that is gluten free. It has lots of nutrients and has a nutty,
earthy flavor that is slightly bitter.
However, it
is impossible to say what effect any of these grains/seeds had on the final
brew without knowing the percentage of each in the malt. I can say that the
brewer did a great job and produced a beer that is different and
enjoyable. What more can we ask for a
beautiful Sunday afternoon in the Green Bench beer garden.
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